Here's a little part, that is so brilliantly simple that the instructions regarding how to install it dumbfounded me. I just really could not believe it would be that easy.
A quick background first. The Pertonix Ignitor is a electronic device designed to replace the contact point (or breaker point as others will call it) in Old-school ignition systems. It works by using a sensor and a rotating magnet on the distributor shaft to create a Hall Effect voltage difference to trigger the ignition system. This can be used to activate the coil directly or can be used as a trigger for other ignition systems. Those who have read my post about my MSD setup will know that I have been using the contact point to trigger the MSD. That was a fine setup actually, because since the contact point was only acting as a low voltage trigger it lasts almost forever since the breaker points don't get burnt out. I used to go through about 2 contact points a year, but I've had the same one in the car since we installed the MSD 3 years ago. The points are still fresh.
The problem with this is that the contact point is still a mechanical device, the cam on the distributor opening and closing it which led to the guide actually wearing down and knocking it out of timing.
The contact point is also not the most reliable trigger device, specially at high RPM. Where it is prone to 'points bounce' where the thing is opening so fast it can't close fast enough to keep up with the engine speed.
So, eventually, all the stars and planets aligned just right and I had the perfect opportunity to order a Petronix Ignitor from the USA (read as; I had a buddy going the States and he could get it for me) so we placed an order for Part No. 1943. for 'Mitsubishi 4 cyl. engine'
This is the kit right here prior to installation;
Contains one back to back instruction sheet, the Ignitor module, a plate, the black thing which houses the magnets, two screws and a plastic feeler gauge (and a bunch of catalogs that I threw away). The instructions simplified basically said, remove the old points, install this, make sure the Airgap is just right, then connect the wires and go. That simple, no dwell angle, no point gap. Almost too good to be true. Or maybe I've just gotten to used to the fact that nothing should just simply bolt on to an old Mitsubishi engine.
And so... Here's how the simple installation went;
Here's the distributor as removed from the engine. Cap and Rotor pulled off already. The MSD trigger wire would used to connect to that terminal seen on the left side of housing which ran straight to the contact point.
Simply remove two screws and pull the whole thing out.
We are then, left with this;
According the in instructions part number 1943 comes with a plate that must be fitted underneath the ignitor unit.
The Ignitor then just bolts back on with the two provided screws go into where the original contact point bolted to. (note that the right side one also secures the ground strap)
The wires then simply route around and an adjustable grommet secures them to the notch on the side of the distributor's body. (note the micro-ziptie I used to make things extra neat)
Then, the magnetic collar thing (I forgot exactly what they called it in the instructions) slides over the points cam into place.
Smooth sailing so far up to this point, but I noticed that there was not enough room on top of the shaft for the distributor rotor to lock into place. A quick test fit with my clear distributor cap to check the internal clearances confirmed this. In fact the rotor was sitting so high up that is was rubbing on the bottom of the cap.
Not good! But, I figured that the difference was so small that ditching that 'required' plate would do the trick. Not too hard, but we did have to trim the one supplied flush mount screw (right most) by 2 threads (not easy when it's a tiny screw) and reuse one of the old screws from the contact point set (center) to clear the body of the distributor on the bottom.
Tested for clearance before screwing it in. Look at how much more space there is on the shaft for the rotor to hold on to.
Installed!
The Pertronix kit is so complete it comes with a plastic feeler gauge to verify that the air gap between the module and the magnet holder is at .30 Inches. Why this needs to be done when there is no apparent way to adjust this should that not be the case- because the holes are fixed in PN. 1943, I don't know. Although in other Pertonix kits there is, because the plate is made like a contact point and you can slide it around.
And that completes the installation!
The wiring is very simple. The Red wire needs a switched 12V source to turn the thing on and off. The Black wire is the trigger wire, it goes to either the coils negative terminal in a conventional system or connects to the MSD trigger wire.
Installed in the car. There's a big difference. Specially at this stage were my freshly built engine is not tuned and does not even have an exhaust, it already runs noticeably smoother and starts much easier. I will give more feedback when the car is sorted out properly.
Here's also a nice tip I got from a good friend of mine;
The collar that holes the magnets on the distributor shaft has a tendency to come apart. As extra insurance we spotted the edges with a bit of superglue. The thing contains 4 really powerful magnets and if it does come apart the magnets are sure to fly off the nearest metal they can stick on to.
A bit more info on my cool clear distributor cap. It's an old-school accessory given to me a few years ago as a gift from a buddy of mine who's into the same crazy things as I am. It also had the most awesome disco light effect going on when you look at the running engine at night.. But, it has unfortunately cracked due to heat and use so it's not serviceable anymore. However it makes a great tool for checking the clearance inside the dizzy and for setting on the engine and finding where the rotor hits the No.1 cylinders terminal when setting TDC.
